Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)

[clink]

 Romain saiad with avocado. New York steak and spicy barbecue marinated chicken from the Corralitos market. Sweet white corn on the cob. Baked russet potatoes. Gayle's bakery sourdough and Alexander Valley red.

 Once in a great while feast. Rachel had eggs instead.?

[JC w KC redux]

Romaine salad with avocado. New York steak and spicy barbecue marinated chicken from the Corralitos market. Sweet white corn on the cob. Baked russet potatoes. Gayle's bakery sourdough and Alexander Valley red. Once in a great while feast.

Yum Yum

Rachel had eggs instead?

What a chicken!

[climberdude]

I will be checking out the new routes on Crocodile Crag tomorrow.  They look good.  Is one of these the route where you pulled out the half-drilled bolts from an abandoned route?

[Brad Young]

Is one of these the route where you pulled out the half-drilled bolts from an abandoned route?

Yes. The abandoned route's two bolts were at about the same positions as the second and fourth bolts of Whistling' Dixie. Their second bolt had an ancient lower-off sling on it.

Notice anything familiar looking about their abandoned bolts?

[JC w KC redux]

I will be checking out the new routes on Crocodile Crag tomorrow.  They look good. 

Saw the dude out on the routes today (from The Overlook).

Looked like he was having fun.

It also looked like he was contemplating Old Route  - did you do it dude?

[Brad Young]

Saw the dude out on the routes today (from The Overlook).

Looked like he was having fun.

It also looked like he was contemplating Old Route  - did you do it dude?

Hey, did you do The Overlook?!

[climberdude]

Nice find on "Whistlin' Dixie" and I also really liked "Endeavor To Persevere".  Both of these are really quality climbs.  I just looked at "Old School", but will do it another day.  How did you like "The Overlook"?  I did that climb last Saturday and really liked it.  I also did "North Goal Post - Original Route", which was very scary since I never found the first bolt.  Are there really two bolts on this route?  I liked "North Goal Post - Shortcut" better since I knew exactly where the single bolt was located.

[Brad Young]

I also did "North Goal Post - Original Route", which was very scary since I never found the first bolt.  Are there really two bolts on this route?  I liked "North Goal Post - Shortcut" better since I knew exactly where the single bolt was located.

If you started Original in the right place you'd come up on the first bolt as the climbing eases, off five feet or so to the right. It's there. When I was revising the route descriptions I was shocked at how far it was from where you'd expect it. But I did find it (the replacement that is).

[JC w KC redux]

Nice find on "Whistlin' Dixie" and I also really liked "Endeavor To Persevere".  Both of these are really quality climbs.  I just looked at "Old School", but will do it another day.  How did you like "The Overlook"?  I did that climb last Saturday and really liked it.  I also did "North Goal Post - Original Route", which was very scary since I never found the first bolt.  Are there really two bolts on this route?  I liked "North Goal Post - Shortcut" better since I knew exactly where the single bolt was located.

I did N Goal Post Original on 4-19-15.
From my log:
We started on the weakness that is further uphill but it didn’t feel right to me so we went to the downhill option and I stepped up onto that. Neither one of us could see the first bolt from anywhere. After a few moves Alex let me know that I was out of spotter’s range. I steadied myself, brushed off a few holds and made the moves up the low angle upper part. From there I found the bolt – up and around – so it’s impossible to see from below.

Overlook is cool.

I'd be happy to belay you on Old Route some time.

The dude abides.

[JC w KC redux]

Hey, did you do The Overlook?!

Yes and it was fun. On the way back we climbed down and into/through the tree where the 4th class section is. The ledge starts right there. We also did Chamber of Secrets and N Goal Post Shortcut (the short version).

[climberdude]

You might want to modify the approach descriptions for the route "Fixtures".  It took me about an hour to find it from Outback Buttress area.  While in the winter walking directly down the grassy slope and then through the woods will get you there, in the spring, summer, and fall, the ground in the woods area has lots of poison oak with leaves.  It would be better to approach it from the Frog, which is fairly poison oak free or drop down all the way from Outback Buttress to the drainage and then go up to the area.  You can also approach as I did once I finally found it by traversing across the grassy hillside through openings in the brush to the western-most edge of Far Outback and proceed up  right next to the western-most edge of Far Outback to the top and then walk down slabs, aiming for the end of the slabs where the fence posts are.  Then you can rappel in.  The Inverted Jug formation is not visible when approaching from Outback Buttress since it is blocked by trees.

[JC w KC redux]

You might want to modify the approach descriptions for the route "Fixtures".  It took me about an hour to find it from Outback Buttress area. 

I believe the map will show both options.

Welcome to the club.
I know where Outback Buttress is now and already anticipated taking the upper approach to get to Fixtures that you described since Brad told me about the PO.
Were you back out climbing again Sunday?

[Brad Young]

Actually the Far Outback isn't on the map at all. The Near and Central Outback are on the map. Here's why.

Since that area was a relative latecomer to climbing at Pinns, I had a choice of putting the parts of The Outback that would fit on the existing map, or redrawing the whole thing and then scanning and cleaning it again (about a 12 to 15 hour process, including cleaning).

It just wasn't worth redoing the whole map.

The written description will be easier to use though with photos. And there will be color photos of the area (at least one, maybe two). The partial map will help, but the photos should seal the deal (as far as finding the place).

[Brad Young]

You might want to modify the approach descriptions for the route "Fixtures".  It took me about an hour to find it from Outback Buttress area.  While in the winter walking directly down the grassy slope and then through the woods will get you there, in the spring, summer, and fall, the ground in the woods area has lots of poison oak with leaves.  It would be better to approach it from the Frog, which is fairly poison oak free or drop down all the way from Outback Buttress to the drainage and then go up to the area.  You can also approach as I did once I finally found it by traversing across the grassy hillside through openings in the brush to the western-most edge of Far Outback and proceed up  right next to the western-most edge of Far Outback to the top and then walk down slabs, aiming for the end of the slabs where the fence posts are.  Then you can rappel in.  The Inverted Jug formation is not visible when approaching from Outback Buttress since it is blocked by trees.

See the post just above.

It's not that hard to walk around to the east too from the top, if one prefers that to rapping.

Also, I can't just randomly modify it. Do you have any suggested additions, subtractions or edits that would have helped you?

How did you like Fixtures? What story are you coming up with about the two fence posts left there (any story you could invent is as good as those I've been able to invent)?

[climberdude]

Brad, from your description, it seemed like I needed to look for the feature The Inverted Jug from afar to orient where to hike.  However, this is not visible if approaching from the Hand option.  So, I suggest that you indicate that The Inverted Jug will not be visible if approaching by the Hand option.  I am not sure if it is visible from the Frog approach option since I left by that way, but did not look back.  In any case, I would make it clear that you need to hike towards the northeastern end of the entire formation.

I did like "Fixtures".  The bottom section felt more like G-word (can't mention it on this site) slab climbing (which I also like) and then the middle and upper sections felt more like Pinnacles climbing with knobs and protruding features.  When I was looking for the route and was about to give up, once I saw the metal fence posts, I knew exactly where it was.  I think some rangers who were assigned to replace posts in the fence were more interested in climbing and forgot about replacing the fence posts.  Maybe they free soloed your route and never reported it.  

JC, I was also climbing on Sunday (got to get in as many new routes as I can for this last weekend before heat closes the season until Fall).  I did "Primrose Pinnacle", "Fixtures", "Brown Rice And Boogers", "Tadpole Rock - East Face" (on rope-solo toprope, of course, do you think I am crazy to lead that X route with a single Leeper hanger?), and "The Barge".  I liked the view from the top of The Barge.  You can look down on the hikers and the entire eastern Pinnacles.  Pinnacles climbing is really great now since their are less crowds and I am seeing a much more wildlife (lots of snakes, lizards, and birds).  However, this weekend will be the last for me until the Fall.

[Brad Young]

...however, this weekend will be the last for me until the Fall.

The "F" word is also a non-no.

Until the Autumn 

[Brad Young]

I'll work over the description. too.

[clink]

 In the Fall,
 I won't feel so fat.
 It will be like floating,
 until I ...

  

[JC w KC redux]

Brad, from your description, it seemed like I needed to look for the feature The Inverted Jug from afar to orient where to hike.  However, this is not visible if approaching from the Hand option.  So, I suggest that you indicate that The Inverted Jug will not be visible if approaching by the Hand option.  I am not sure if it is visible from the Frog approach option since I left by that way, but did not look back.  In any case, I would make it clear that you need to hike towards the northeastern end of the entire formation.

I did like "Fixtures".  The bottom section felt more like G-word (can't mention it on this site) slab climbing (which I also like) and then the middle and upper sections felt more like Pinnacles climbing with knobs and protruding features.  When I was looking for the route and was about to give up, once I saw the metal fence posts, I knew exactly where it was.  I think some rangers who were assigned to replace posts in the fence were more interested in climbing and forgot about replacing the fence posts.  Maybe they free soloed your route and never reported it.  

JC, I was also climbing on Sunday (got to get in as many new routes as I can for this last weekend before heat closes the season until Fall).  I did "Primrose Pinnacle", "Fixtures", "Brown Rice And Boogers", "Tadpole Rock - East Face" (on rope-solo toprope, of course, do you think I am crazy to lead that X route with a single Leeper hanger?), and "The Barge".  I liked the view from the top of The Barge.  You can look down on the hikers and the entire eastern Pinnacles.  Pinnacles climbing is really great now since their are less crowds and I am seeing a much more wildlife (lots of snakes, lizards, and birds).  However, this weekend will be the last for me until the Fall.

I can see Inverted Jug from Rubble Wall. Maybe the approach should be from there 
It should be visible from The Frog too and I thought I might have a pic - but can't find one.

I enjoyed your story about Fixtures.

I really like Primrose Pinnacle.

I could tell you where all the climbers are but like you, I will refrain.

You covered a lot of ground dude.

I keep meaning to get back out to Tadpole and rebolt that route but just haven't gotten to it.

This weekend is looking good.

Can't wait for the biting flies and the heat this year.

[climberdude]

Let me know when you want to go out to replace the bolts on Tadpole Rock - East Face as I would like to help you.  Probably one of the two remaining Leeper hangers and Star Drivin bolts at the top should also be replaced to compliment the single newer bolt.