Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2752225 times)

F4?

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1060 on: June 03, 2019, 05:51:48 PM »
Noal, cut me in!!

I have a few route names for the area....
I'm not worthy.

NOAL

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1061 on: June 03, 2019, 06:18:09 PM »
Quote
Noal, cut me in!! 

Ok. I can go this weekend.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1062 on: June 05, 2019, 12:59:31 PM »
I made these additions to the list today:

-  698.31  You Canít Fool MoM  5.6

-  698.32  Feet to the Fire  5.7


JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1063 on: June 05, 2019, 03:06:51 PM »
I made these additions to the list today:
-  698.31  You Canít Fool MoM  5.6
-  698.32  Feet to the Fire  5.7

Nice. Thanks!

You can fool some of the people all of the time and all of the people some of the time but you can't fool MoM  :yesnod: :thumbup: :lol:

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1064 on: October 23, 2019, 05:13:23 PM »
I added five new routes to the list today:

-  97.7  Casual Friday  5.2

-  471.6  Dangling Participle  5.9

-  485.54  Four Goatsí Sake  5.6 *

-  485.55  Sheep Sheer  5.10b **

-  485.81  Scapegoat  5.7  

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1065 on: November 03, 2019, 08:49:59 AM »
I added two new routes to the list this morning:

-  485.56  Goat Riddance  5.10a **

-  485.57  Forgive And Forgoat  5.10a **


briham89

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1066 on: November 04, 2019, 10:32:26 AM »
Upped from 5.9? I haven't climbed them yet, so curious about this.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1067 on: November 04, 2019, 11:26:11 AM »
I led Forgive and Forgoat last Wednesday with Gavin and John present.

With no information ahead of time I'd have rated it 5.10a or b. It's harder than The Wet Kiss, technically harder than Lava Falls (although much better protected) and, by my estimate, two grades harder than Dangling Participle, another 5.9 that Gavin established recently on Punctuation Pinnacle.

Gavin followed my lead (John was saving up for a lead of the gut-wrenchingly runout route Piece of Ewe). Upon finishing, Gavin agreed that 5.10a was fair, told me that Goat Riddence was the same grade, and was specific that Sheep Sheer was a grade harder than these.

Interestingly, Laura had led Sheep Sheer and Steve had followed it over the PCAD weekend. They were both quite certain that it was 5.10b. So I changed that route to fit all of the above.

EDIT: And I should add too that John didn't seem to have any issue with these ratings. Maybe either or both of them will chime in with their thoughts?

And you should go do them; all three are great additions.



JC w KC redux

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1068 on: November 05, 2019, 04:17:29 PM »
I led Forgive and Forgoat last Wednesday with Gavin and John present.

With no information ahead of time I'd have rated it 5.10a or b. It's harder than The Wet Kiss, technically harder than Lava Falls (although much better protected) and, by my estimate, two grades harder than Dangling Participle, another 5.9 that Gavin established recently on Punctuation Pinnacle.

Gavin followed my lead (John was saving up for a lead of the gut-wrenchingly runout route Piece of Ewe). Upon finishing, Gavin agreed that 5.10a was fair, told me that Goat Riddence was the same grade, and was specific that Sheep Sheer was a grade harder than these.

Interestingly, Laura had led Sheep Sheer and Steve had followed it over the PCAD weekend. They were both quite certain that it was 5.10b. So I changed that route to fit all of the above.

EDIT: And I should add too that John didn't seem to have any issue with these ratings. Maybe either or both of them will chime in with their thoughts?

And you should go do them; all three are great additions.

From my climbing log:

5-9-19 Goat Riddance 5.9*
The crux is spicy as hell. You have to climb an intimidatingly steep section well above the lst bolt to get up to a lodestone and clip a bolt on the lip. Getting past there requires some pretty delicate and wide stemming and the hand holds are quite small. I had to trust some handhold knobs that I didnít want to to get up to the bolt. Getting over the lip definitely had me at my limit and it is one where you have to keep moving steadily. The rest of the climb is relatively easy and long.

6-13-19 Forgive and Forgoat 5.9**
The first crux is past the first bolt (5.7), the second crux is past the 3rd and 4th bolts 5.8 and the 3rd crux is past the 6th and 7th bolts (5.9). All the cruxes are tricky and committing and the rock is really good. The last crux is powerful (get your left foot up first) and then commit up on balancy, small hand holds and reach high for the joy knob. It is committing to pull up on the joy knob and get the layaway knob out right and then either move up to stand on the joy knob to clip or hang off and clip before moving up. There is a good crimper for the left hand to combine with the layaway knob to move up and stand on the joy knob. The moves past there are still thoughtful and then you get a good stance at bolt 8 to cast off into the upper part.

6-27-19 Sheep Shear 10a**
I was nervous as hell but got to the first bolt no problem (itís committing) and then the thinness of the next section getting to the crux bolt really put me off. I couldnít commit and almost backed off. I finally got my feet up a few times (thereís almost nothing for the hands) and then got the bolt clipped. I was stemming for all I was worth and I couldnít figure out the feet. The trick was to reposition my feet more in front of me and then stem back out further right. From there I was able to fumble around on the lip and get my feet up again (itís all delicate stemming and footwork) and I eventually was able to reach over the lip and grab bigger holds to pull up, then push over the lip. I smacked my left elbow hard going over the lip. I was so relieved to get it. The next crux (5.9) is really good too with bigger holds and a little overhanging.

Gavin

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1069 on: November 05, 2019, 05:35:31 PM »
Brian -

Let me know if you want to come climb the Goat Rock routes - Iíd love to get your reactions to climbing them.

briham89

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1070 on: November 05, 2019, 06:59:37 PM »
Gavin are you free either day this weekend?

Gavin

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1071 on: November 05, 2019, 10:15:19 PM »
Iíll send you an email and we can make a plan.

mungeclimber

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1072 on: November 06, 2019, 08:05:09 AM »
But how can you have any goat if you donít climb your granite!

-Pink Floyd. ;)
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1073 on: November 15, 2019, 11:07:19 AM »
I added two route to the list today:

-  359.5  Mister Mud Goes to Washington  5.10c

-  560.41  Ham Sandwich  5.9 *

mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1074 on: November 15, 2019, 12:19:36 PM »
I heard it was 10b
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1075 on: November 15, 2019, 01:04:16 PM »

I heard it was 10b


Yeah you did. And I got sworn at and massively out-voted about that rating. The next route we did was Que Latima and everyone agreed that Mister Mud was harder.

Either way, by definition, the rating is soft (and old and weak).



mynameismud

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1076 on: November 15, 2019, 01:52:00 PM »
So, your saying I am right.

Yeah you did. And I got sworn at and massively out-voted about that rating.

Either way, by definition, the rating is soft (and old and weak).

Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1077 on: November 15, 2019, 01:57:28 PM »
^^^

Yes, what you typed was literally correct.

clink

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1078 on: November 15, 2019, 04:11:08 PM »
Both routes are 5.9+
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)
« Reply #1079 on: November 15, 2019, 04:20:29 PM »
I am so utterly surrounded by FREAKS.