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Author Topic: Newly Established and Found Routes (Since the '07 Guidebook)  (Read 2741558 times)
Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5487


« Reply #1100 on: November 27, 2019, 02:52:11 PM »


...it's the same style as today (plus 2 inches).


Well I've only ever owned a right handed comb.
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Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5487


« Reply #1101 on: November 28, 2019, 07:55:29 AM »

I added two route to the list this morning:

755.3  The Invitation  Class Four

755.4  Hey Neighbor  5.5

On Hey Neighbor, Tricia decided where she wanted the first bolt and then I drilled it. She then led past that bolt, cleaning a bit and deciding where she wanted the second one. She helped drill the summit anchor too.

It was fun hanging out with her.

And now there's been over an inch of cleaning rain for this and all the other recent FAs.
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JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 5065


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #1102 on: November 28, 2019, 08:58:44 AM »

I added two route to the list this morning:

-  755.3  The Invitation  Class Four

-  755.4  Hey Neighbor  5.5



From what I recall those boulders are ensconced in Poison Oak. I didn't want to get anywhere near them.
I will consider them Cook proof and redact them from any future lists.
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Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5487


« Reply #1103 on: November 28, 2019, 09:14:21 AM »

^^^

No, not really. The Invitation isn't anywhere near any poison oak.

There's some P.O. near the two other blocks, but it's easy to avoid (just don't come into the corridor from the trail side, and don't wander off too far in the direction of The Balconies).

If anything were to put you off from these routes, it would be their lack of quality. Some good rock, but more loose crap than I expected. And too much actual dirt too (up higher). Amazingly though all four bolts that I drilled were in bullet-hard rock. The long bolt at the anchor especially; it took us forever to drill!

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JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 5065


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #1104 on: November 28, 2019, 09:15:45 AM »


And now there's been over an inch of cleaning rain for this and all the other recent FAs.


Unless they are like most Pinns routes where dirt from above gets washed down by the rain and negates any possibiltiy of them ever being clean routes. Yes Nod Laugh Out Loud
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Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5487


« Reply #1105 on: November 28, 2019, 09:24:54 AM »

It's a weird summit. Long and sloped on two sides. The side away from our route is broad and low-angle, covered with loose rocks, dirt and grass/brush. The side of the summit above our route is low angle too, with grass and dirt, but not nearly as much as on the other side.

So yeah, at least some dirt from above will wash down. But what really negates the possibility of it ever being clean is the fact that no-one else will ever climb it  Wink

Happy Thanksgiving all! It's raining here in southern California too - pretty hard downpours at times.

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JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 5065


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #1106 on: November 28, 2019, 01:22:28 PM »



Happy Pinnsgiving  Thumb Up Dude Big Grin Yes Nod Arf
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mynameismud
unworthy

Posts: 5536


WWW
« Reply #1107 on: December 01, 2019, 11:37:21 AM »

Happy Happy Joy Joy
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Here's to sweat in your eye
Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5487


« Reply #1108 on: December 19, 2019, 01:22:50 PM »

I added three routes to the list today. With these three I’ve got more to write than just their names:

-  468.11  Up the Buttress  5.10a ***

While I only did this toprope solo (and wasn’t focussed on doing even that clean), wow! I called both first ascentionists that day and raved about giving it “two stars.” And then I got to wondering: “why only two?” This route is really good (I mean just imagine what it takes for the rock on a new Pinnacles route to be so good that is shocks me). Highly recommended, and I can't wait to go back and lead it. Probably a better route even than Shades of Jade.


-  507.8  Pinnacle Seventeen  A1

Here's an odd one. I tried free climbing the only (only!) visible weakness and every single foothold I tried broke off. I didn't get off the ground. And above the "start" were another 20 feet of equally loose looking rock to a traverse to the summit.

Jenn and I climbed it by rope toss and prusik, which is what the first ascent party must have done too (unless maybe the bolt was drilled by an early prototype drone?). But that just raises the question: why put in a summit bolt at all, since a rope-toss and prusik is as easy to "Pinnacles rappel" from as it is to do in the first place? I guess someone who climbed this in the past wanted to "piss on" it so to speak, marking it so that any dummy who found it in the future would know that it had been climbed.

Odd. But it has clearly been climbed and is a part of Pinnacles' climbing history.


-  536.6  Not Today  5.10c R

The bolts on this look bad, and all three have Leeper hangers. It might actually be an "X" route until/if the bolts are replaced.
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clink
unworthy

Posts: 3172


« Reply #1109 on: December 19, 2019, 02:56:43 PM »

The first one gets a star for the name alone.  Smiley
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Causing trouble when not climbing.
Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5487


« Reply #1110 on: December 19, 2019, 05:04:35 PM »


The first one gets a star for the name alone.  Smiley


Yeah. And minus a star for the inability to put the true name of one of the FA authors on this site  Tongue

See? We're back to three stars....

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mynameismud
unworthy

Posts: 5536


WWW
« Reply #1111 on: December 29, 2019, 07:54:51 PM »

Good photo op route as well.

I added three routes to the list today. With these three I’ve got more to write than just their names:

-  468.11  Up the Buttress  5.10a ***

While I only did this toprope solo (and wasn’t focussed on doing even that clean), wow! I called both first ascentionists that day and raved about giving it “two stars.” And then I got to wondering: “why only two?” This route is really good (I mean just imagine what it takes for the rock on a new Pinnacles route to be so good that is shocks me). Highly recommended, and I can't wait to go back and lead it. Probably a better route even than Shades of Jade.


-  507.8  Pinnacle Seventeen  A1

Here's an odd one. I tried free climbing the only (only!) visible weakness and every single foothold I tried broke off. I didn't get off the ground. And above the "start" were another 20 feet of equally loose looking rock to a traverse to the summit.

Jenn and I climbed it by rope toss and prusik, which is what the first ascent party must have done too (unless maybe the bolt was drilled by an early prototype drone?). But that just raises the question: why put in a summit bolt at all, since a rope-toss and prusik is as easy to "Pinnacles rappel" from as it is to do in the first place? I guess someone who climbed this in the past wanted to "piss on" it so to speak, marking it so that any dummy who found it in the future would know that it had been climbed.

Odd. But it has clearly been climbed and is a part of Pinnacles' climbing history.


-  536.6  Not Today  5.10c R

The bolts on this look bad, and all three have Leeper hangers. It might actually be an "X" route until/if the bolts are replaced.
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Here's to sweat in your eye
Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5487


« Reply #1112 on: January 08, 2020, 01:14:08 PM »

I added five routes to the list today:

-  530.1  Bibulous Bluff  Class Four *

-  530.2  Mescaline Mound  5.2

-  530.32  Pot Pinnacle - Moonshiner’s Chimney  5.5

-  530.33  Pot Pinnacle - Up In Smoke  5.3 *

-  530.4  Illicit Chimney Dome  5.4


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Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5487


« Reply #1113 on: January 14, 2020, 03:53:25 PM »

I added one route to the list today (but added a total of three stars too!):

-  83.5  Dreadlock Rasta  5.11a ***

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Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5487


« Reply #1114 on: January 28, 2020, 10:09:41 AM »

Today I modified the description for route 74.5  Jorgie Swallows to reflect that Gavin put a lead bolt in to protect the crux (he’d done the first ascent without the bolt and the route previously had an “R” sub-rating). His recent repeat ascents also made him reassess the route's quality and the new description also reflects that.

I also added a recently discovered route to the list:

-  507.35  The Maze - High Point  5.0

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Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5487


« Reply #1115 on: February 21, 2020, 12:01:02 PM »

I added a route to the list today:

-  302.515  Coronary Bypass  5.10b **

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Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5487


« Reply #1116 on: February 26, 2020, 11:59:02 AM »

I added 15 routes to the list today:

-  468.7  Five Aces  5.8 *

-  507.42  The Right Honourable Robert  5.4

-  507.43  Scurvy  5.4

-  507.5 Glad Stone  5.4

-  507.61  Half Platte  5.4

-  507.64  Slip’n Slide  5.3

-  507.65  Almost Always  5.6

-  507.71  Full Loaf - Buttered Toast  5.5

-  507.74  Half Loaf - The Slice  5.7

-  507.82  The Missing Link  5.9 *

-  507.84  The Stroll  5.2 *

-  519.6  Mister Bolt Jangles  5.8 **

-  530.05  Condorks  5.9 R *

-  578.9  The Clump - Scrambler’s Route  Class Four

-  617.1  Placid Nirvana  Class Four


Another route which was recently done, Plateau Pinnacle, has a still-incomplete description. I'll try to get this done and one the list soon.
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Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5487


« Reply #1117 on: February 27, 2020, 02:21:48 PM »

I added Plateau Pinnacle to the list today:

-  617.6  Plateau Pinnacle  5.6

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Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5487


« Reply #1118 on: March 05, 2020, 01:23:02 PM »

I added two routes to the list:

-  616.8  The Short Ribs - High Point  5.6

-  839.5  Butcher Block  5.3 R *


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Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5487


« Reply #1119 on: March 16, 2020, 11:16:15 AM »

I added two newly established routes to the list today:

-  560.7  Mean Max  5.4

-  617.2  Betsy  5.7


Of the nine people who will read this post, two or three will actually look at the newly-posted routes, and J.C. is the only one who will figure out how I decided on the name “Betsy.” Here’s hoping sincerely that he does not pull his throat muscles groaning at that derivation.

Also, I meant to add a comment about the West Side route Butcher Block when I posted that. I “ran” up and down this as an FA while I was waiting for my poor, utterly abused climbing partner of the day to catch up while we did one of the more epic brush-crashing approaches that I’ve ever done at Pinnacles (Squareblock Rock to Butcher Block and then almost to Cleaver Buttress - highly recommended!).  We didn’t have a bolt kit that day, and there wouldn’t have been time to put bolts in anyway.  It’s a fun route to a nice summit.  Anyone who repeats it should feel free to add a lead bolt and/or an anchor if they so wish.

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