an evening at castle

[salad]

its old, but...

i should note that the f-bomb is dropped once or twice....

[mungeclimber]

one of all time fav castle vids

[mynameismud]

All back in the day.

[mungeclimber]

crusty even?


BITD...

[mynameismud]

That is a fun section.  The crux hold is loose.  Who is that skinny guy?

[F4?]

What are routes he's on...notice the 2nd bolt accross from his foot.

[Brad Young]

I thought it was Machete Direct, first pitch?

[F4?]

Prolly is machete direct, it's been a few years since I've been on that route.

Yah, he is pretty dang white. Must be from Washington or some where up north.

[mynameismud]

Yep, Machete Direct.

[F4?]

Hold on there a second. It looks like he has clipped the aid bolts and then moved over to the free bolts.

So is that legit?

[mynameismud]

From what I understand it was originally freed with the aid bolts but I think most people find it is easier to do the "free" line off to the right. 

I found it easier to traverse over and go up the aid line.  It requires a couple of extra moves initially and perhaps is a bit trickier to figure out but one advantage is the upper moves are more direct.  It also saves a person from having to do the pumpy clip of the second "free" bolt ( I do not like that move ). 

But just to make sure I have freed the right hand line also.   

[F4?]

Interesting that you can go both ways.

I can remember back in '94 trying to sandbag my old partner Scott into doing the free variation. I think he got to the 2nd clip. "What's the rating?" I replied "5.11 something". Later on "5.11 what?" I replied c..maybe d.

But just to make sure I have freed the right hand line also.   

Gotta keep you honest!

[mynameismud]

The pinch you have to do in order to clip that second bolt is way pumpy and I think ends up being the crux.  You have to hold that pinch to do the clip then use it to pull through that move.  It is a bitch.  The aid line the holds that are used for the clips are much friendlier (To me anyhow).

[F'ueco]

Back to the subject at hand...

I was at Castle this afternoon. Absolutely perfect temperatures (low 40s with a slight breeze). Too bad my hands are out of shape for climbing...