Mud's failed attempt

[mudworm]

Mud wants to get that 11 before the area is closed for the season. So, despite having stayed up until 1am (he had to go back to work after beers), he got up before 7am and took off for the Pinns. He said he would just set up TR and try to work out the moves this time. I wanted to land him a belay hand, but not enough to cut too short my weekend sleep.

He just called me on his way back. Forgot to pack a rope. Poor guy.

[Brad Young]

I sincerely and humbly apologize.

[salad]

oh goodness.  last time he forget his harness!

[squiddo]

poor guy needs to pack and maintain a "pinnacles" bag in the car. Never without the essentials and no, beer is NOT optional.

[mynameismud]

Man, No secrets.  Who ever thought up this public forum?

Perfect day to work a route, or rake leaves.

[Delbomber]

You should have went for a ride. LOL..

[mynameismud]

That is what mudworm said.  Hit the rollers for an hour. 

mudworm managed a first riding no hands for a bit on the rollers.

[mynameismud]

Today was more successful.

I hiked up to the top of Machete then rapped down the route.  The second to last pitch is not real hard but it is very impressive.  Glen Denny really ran that out.  The additional bolts make it very tame.  But when you just look at the original bolts you cannot help but think "That looks like a long ways".

I left my pack at the top of the 3rd pitch and began working out the moves on the variation.  There are a half a dozen moves just below the belay that are fairly difficult and about 3 moves that you have to think about.   Continuing on, I worked my way up and down that pitch until I was at the anchors at the top of the 2nd pitch.

Once clipped into the bolts at the top of the 2nd pitch it became apparent that it was very cloudy.  It had been spitting the whole time.  Figuring it would be bad if it really began to rain with my pack up above, I climbed back up to the top of the pitch and got my pack.  I then rapped down to the top of the 2nd and left the bag there.

I had just enough time to climb back up one more time.  After that it just was not looking to good so I pulled up the rope and rigged the rappel.  By the time I got to my pack it was almost sprinkling.  I changed into my hiking shoes put on the pack and rapped to the ground. 

On the ground it was a light sprinkle.  At the car it was almost a light rain.  At the Freeway it was raining.

The timing worked well, The Pinnacles was very nice to me.  All I need is a couple of clear days for the rock to dry out and a day to lead it.

Here's to sweat in your eye

[mynameismud]

I forgot the best part.  Mudworm emailed and told me to pick up milk.  Ok. no problem.

When I got home it was really raining.

And, there was fresh home made Cookies.  Whoohoo.

Cookies and Milk.

Classic Day.

[Brad Young]

I now retract my apology.

[mynameismud]

 Yesterday I got the successful lead.  Brad, Erik and  I went down to the Pins and climbed Sons of the West.  I climbed all the free pitches clean.  I lead the odd pitches and Brad lead the evens.  Erik practiced his wall technique and hauled the pig.  Ugh, now that is a workout.

The 1st pitch about 5.9 with the crux getting to the tree branch which I slung and pulled on. 

the 2nd pitch is a bolt ladder.  One bolt has been replaced.  So the rest are old star dryves.  Up high there are some long reaches and one rivet.  It is possible to get in some small wires or cams to help get through some of the long reaches.

The 3rd pitch is 11b or so with some fun moves.  I like the occasional pocket scattered on this pitch.

 The 4th pitch, the first 10 feet is difficult mainly because it is so loose, the moves here are probably 10+ or 11-, the chimney is about 5.9.  There first 4 moves off of the belay are basically gambling.  If the holds last you got it.  The lower part of the chimney is a bit spicy until you get about 6 feet up and can get in a good #1 Camalot (2 1/2 friend).  Bring lots of big and medium stuff for the pitch (We had a full Yos. Rack and used most of it).

The 5th pitch is about 5.8.  If you just use the original bolts it is reminiscent of the runout 5.9 routes on the apron in Yos.  If you clip all of the retro bolts it is very casual.  I skipped a couple just to give it a bit of flair and am glad I did.  I would like to go back and look at this and figure out what to remove in order to clean up this pitch.  Fun climbing and the rock is good.

Last pitch is a 4th class scramble to the top.

Here's to sweat in your eye.

[mudworm]

You do not climb regularly. Yet, you go out and pull something like this off! You never cease to amaze me. 

[Brad Young]

On the bolt ladder, two of the bolts are very old quarter inchers. The rest are 3/8" Star Dryvins, most with funky hangers. Could use some more bolts replaced. The reaches were phenomenal, and at one place I had to place and pull up on a stopper that I didn't really like, just to get high enough to clip the next bolt.

Nice leads old man. Two and a half left to go.