Author Topic: Rebolting Digger (Read 7189 times)

Brad Young · « **on:** December 29, 2008, 08:53:42 PM »

Replaced it's second, third, fifth and six bolts on December 28 and 29, 2008 as follows:

Second bolt replaced with a long, carbon steel, Rawl 5 piece (outside the water streak). This bolt is in superb rock, felt like drilling in granite, and no cratering at all. After placing it I pulled the old one (3/8" Star Dryvin). It wouldn't have held a fall! It came out with 4 hits on the crowbar, along with a big chunk of the rock that had been holding it in.

Third bolt replaced with a long, carbon steel, Rawl 5 piece (outside the water streak). The replacement bolt is good, but not as good as the one replacing number two. The old 3/8" Star Dryvin pulled easily.

Five and Six are in the Streak and each was replaced with a long, Rawl 5 piece, stainless steel, both in unusually good rock. The old bolts were in the same good rock and took some work to pull (5 to 7 minutes with a crowbar), but they both seemed to have given all the life they had to give too.

All old holes were patched and are nearly invisible. All replacement bolt were put in within 6 inches of the old bolts and within 3 inches of the same height. I didn't replace the others for reasons of time, but I think I got the critical bolts replaced. The newer, first pitch anchor bolts still seem quite solid (the left one is rusting).

Maybe now I can lead this without thinking that a fall would be death. Still a dirty route though, even after I gave it a bit of a brushing (might as well, since I was right there).

mynameismud · « **Reply #1 on:** December 29, 2008, 09:21:06 PM »

Thank you

F4? · « **Reply #2 on:** December 30, 2008, 11:47:41 AM »

What about hook and drill??

joe · « **Reply #3 on:** December 30, 2008, 12:17:23 PM »

probably not in the right vein to point out that it sounds like a lot of work for a no star route.
or does it get a star now?

mynameismud · « **Reply #4 on:** December 30, 2008, 12:57:38 PM »

I will climb it. Doesn't it go without saying that it is better than Gold Wall.

Brad Young · « **Reply #5 on:** December 30, 2008, 01:30:13 PM »

Every route at Pinnacles that I have yet to climb is a three star route. Doing them is infinitely better than repeating climbs I've done. However, back in reality, no it deserves no stars, it's loose low and dirty everywhere.

Better than Gold Wall? Castle Rock is better than Gold Wall. The worst climbs at Pinnacles are better yet. Although it's 20 minutes from my office, I am beginning to find Gold Wall repugnant, representative of every one of the few things I dislike about climbing.

joe · « **Reply #6 on:** December 30, 2008, 04:09:53 PM »

"it's loose low and dirty everywhere."

alright you sold me. sounds good.

Brad Young · « **Reply #7 on:** December 30, 2008, 04:38:19 PM »

Mr Mud, get a "Masters of Mud" coffee mug in production for Joe. He's got a way to go, but, with this last comment it's clear we're finally starting to get to him. He's looking beyond "stars." I give him two years and he'll be a real Pinnacles climber.

BTW, Dawson's getting there too. The last two seasons I've caught him leading Pinnacles obscurities (seen him, not "caught" in a falling sense). Great progress.

F4? · « **Reply #8 on:** December 30, 2008, 04:46:37 PM »

Now everyone repeat:
"I Love CHOSS!"

mudworm · « **Reply #9 on:** December 30, 2008, 05:02:19 PM »

Have climbed at Pinnacles for a while, you see stars everywhere.

F4? · « **Reply #10 on:** December 30, 2008, 05:14:57 PM »

Quote

Have climbed at Pinnacles for a while, you see stars everywhere.

As you hit the ground...

Brad Young · « **Reply #11 on:** December 30, 2008, 05:35:21 PM »

Mostly though I see stars at Pinns just from seeing Mr Mud climb.

mynameismud · « **Reply #12 on:** December 30, 2008, 09:12:53 PM »

That is what you get for not looking out for falling rock.

F4? · « **Reply #13 on:** December 31, 2008, 09:21:40 PM »

Quote

That is what you get for not looking out for falling rock.

That's right, try as Brad might, he isn't going to hit me easily.

PS, hook and drill and digger can't be any worse than if we bolt it. Heck those routes are stellar to that route.

joe · « **Reply #14 on:** January 01, 2009, 10:43:49 AM »

was tempted to check out the new bolts on digger yesterday after doing lava falls, but with a late start it was getting shady over there. so we went over to do if we bolt it again, thinking maybe it will be cleaner, but it was soaked through the bulge and dripping wet. ended on some no star obscurities as a tribute to BY
not another climber on the west side, gorgeous in the sun

Brad Young · « **Reply #15 on:** January 01, 2009, 12:26:05 PM »

Yep, I'm a no-star obscurity if there ever was one. (What route did you do?)

joe · « **Reply #16 on:** January 01, 2009, 02:14:19 PM »

"I'm a no-star obscurity if there ever was one."

Vic claims you're rated 3 stars.

chasing the sun, we did a couple of single digit things on the back of the flumes, a 9 and a 6. I thought they were fun, my partner described them as "cute", although she admitted that she might not describe them as such if she were on lead.
I really enjoyed lava falls again and could see getting back on it before the closures. I couldn't find the first few bolts on electric blue. surprised at how wet 'if we bolt it...' was more than a week since it rained and soaking up sun. gorgeous back there.

Brad Young · « **Reply #17 on:** January 01, 2009, 03:15:07 PM »

"Vic claims you're rated 3 stars."

Vicki is extremely well paid.

F4? · « **Reply #18 on:** January 01, 2009, 08:34:43 PM »

Quote

I really enjoyed lava falls again and could see getting back on it before the closures.

Sign me up!

Brad Young · « **Reply #19 on:** January 12, 2009, 07:33:24 AM »

Led it yesterday. No problems other than the foothold that blew in the crux as I was moving my foot up off of it. I like the rebolting; the ones I replaced were just the ones I wanted (as a leader) replaced.

But what was really impressive is what Laura Dawson led as a warmup. Hook and Drill, onsight, no issues. She's tough. She and Mudworm are obviously both Masters of Mud, but are they? Are there such things as Mistresses of Mud?

I thought the crux on Hook and Drill was the same difficulty as the crux of Digger. Laura disagreed, she thought I was focused because I was leading.

News:

Author Topic: Rebolting Digger (Read 7189 times)