Lonesome Bolt - The Shepherd

[Poppy]

Anyone ever climb this?  5.6 seems a wee bit light for this route.  I though more like 5.8-5.9......anyone?

[Brad Young]

Clint named it and rated it (although the bolt isn't his, it's been there for a long time). Did you lead it or TR it?

[Poppy]

TR, thankfully.

[Poppy]

Nobody else has climbed this jewel?

[mynameismud]

I think that I have, do not remember much.  I was doing a fair bit of soloing back then.  I do recall walking away from that one at least once.

[Brad Young]

I haven't, but I intend to this season. I'm looking for quantity after a fashion; this could be the season I get my life total of Pinns routes done in good style to or over 800. And there's a cluster of 5 or 6 routes I haven't done that are short and/or easy at the Shepherd and Split Boulders. Now that I've seen your post though I think I'll start by TRing it before committing to a "lead."

[Brad Young]

I did it today. Poppy is absolutely right. Jerome and I both agreed - the crux is solid 5.8. Above that is easier but very loose. The crux is just enough higher than the bolt that a leader who fell there would very likely deck from 25 feet up. And deck on solid and uneven rock. I can't see how "R" is enough warning. I think it's 5.8 X. Any further thoughts before I post an "official" change? (And thereby hopefully warn people off who aren't really, really committed to obscure routes.)

[MUCCI]

I looked at it today too, steep...... could you sling a noob somewhere up there?  Rubines 5.0 grade seems like a sandbag!  Brad how was the Old O today? I thought I spotted a party of three on the  west face tower?
*mucci*

[Brad Young]

No slung knobs, no way. The 5.0 in Rubine's book is the chute 50 feet to the right of "Lonesome Bolt," "The Lamb," which I rated 5.4. This route wasn't in Rubine's guide.

Old Original was great, Katie lead two of the three crux pitches (and others as well) and the weather gods let us do the whole thing. Trip report coming. I had no idea your were there today until I read it here! Good job on the rebolting.

[MUCCI]

Right on! sounds like a ropegun.  Thats a long route and what a day to do it.
*Mucci*

[waldo]

I climbed it some years back.  I recall that I started feeling the distance beneath my toes once I passed out of the bolt's effective protection range, if any.  Some Pinnacles climbs do not invite return visits.  This is one for me.
 

[Brad Young]

Yes, that's for sure. A once in a lifetime experience, so to speak.

EDIT: Hey, Bob do you have an opinion on the rating?

[waldo]

Brad,

Holmgren might have called it psychological 5.9, but its actual difficulty was less.

Bob

[mungeclimber]

Clint fires it on TR a few years back.

[Poppy]

Impressive with hiking boots and a loop around the waist.

You can tell he is pumped though...the forearm pump clean blew out his shirt.

[mungeclimber]

LOL!

[squiddo]